The Dye Clan
« PreviousNext »

Rigging a Retrievable Rope

Description

A retrievable rope is used when you need to be able to retrieve the rope from the bottom of the cliff. Examples of this include rock climbing and canyoneering. You rappel down to the bottom then pull your rope.

The following table shows the most common ways to rig a retrievable rappel rope, and it summarizes the capabilities and shortcomings of each method. For more details concerning how to rig each method and to get additional safety information, see each method's page.

To sort multiple columns, hold Shift and click each column.

PictureMethodCan you Rappel Double Strand?Can you Rappel Single Strand?Does it Isolate Strands?Can you Easily Lower a Stuck Rappeller?Can you Set the Rope Length of at Least One Strand?Applicable for LAMAR?Works on Long Rappels with Pull Cord?Minimize Rope Grooves?Extra Gear Required?
Toss 'n Go MethodYesNoNoNoNoYesNoNoNone
Simul RappelNoYesNoSometimesNoYesNoNoNone
Knot BlockSometimes, When Safety is ClippedYesSometimes, When Safety is ClippedNoYesYesYesNoLocking Carabiner
Biner BlockSometimes, When Safety is ClippedYesSometimes, When Safety is ClippedNoYesYesYesNoLocking Carabiner
Releasable Figure 8 BlockNoYesNoYesYesYesNoNoFigure 8, Quickdraw
Isolating Strands with a Stone KnotYesYesYesNoYesNoNoNoLocking Carabiner
Isolating Strands with a Stone EightYesYesYesNoYesNoNoNoFigure 8, Locking Carabiner
Isolating Strands with a Figure 8YesYesYesNoYesNoNoNoFigure 8, Locking Carabiner
Joker MethodYesYesYesYesYesNoNoNoTotem, Locking Carabiner, Quickdraw
Jester MethodYesYesYesYesYesNoNoNoTotem, 2 Locking Carabiners
Figure 8 Contingency AnchorYesYesYesYesYesNoNoNoFigure 8, 2 Locking Carabiners
Munter-Mule Contingency AnchorNoYesNoYesYesNoNoNoNone
ATC Contingency AnchorYesYesNoYesYesNoNoNoATC, Locking Carabiner
FiddlestickNoYesNoNoYesYesYesYesFiddlestick, Pull Cord

Advantages

You don't have to be at the top of the cliff when you undo your rope.

Disadvantages

Retrievable setups require a longer rope or a pull cord. Some setups also have the potential for disaster if the rappeller clips onto the wrong strand.

Next

Toss 'n Go Method