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A knot chock is a knot at the end of a rope that is wedged into a crack in the rock. You can use the Double Overhand Knot or another large knot depending on the size of the crack.
Knot chocks are sometimes the only option.
Knot chocks can shrink when tightened and pull out of the crack. If pulled the wrong direction, knot chocks can fail. Knot chocks are hard to inspect.