Show/Hide Table of Contents

« PreviousNext »

Rappelling Past a Knot

Description

If you have to tie two ropes together to reach the bottom or you have to isolate a damaged section of rope, then at least one person in your group will have to rappel past the knot. It isn't needed often, but this is a skill that everyone needs to know. There are a bunch of methods and techniques, but here are a few to get you thinking.

Two Rappel Devices

This is the easiest and fastest method I'm aware of. It's probably not the safest though, and it requires some strength.

  1. Start by rappelling the first section on a Figure 8 (not a rappel device where the rope goes through your carabiner).
  2. When you get to just above the knot, stop and keep yourself locked off with your left hand.
  3. Hook up your second rappel device to the rope below the knot with your right hand. The second rappel device should have its own carabiner attached to your harness.
  4. With your right hand, pull up a length of rope so you make a loop for your foot to stand in. Pinch the rope to itself right below your lower device.
  5. Stand up on the loop to take the weight off your Figure 8.
  6. Unclip your carabiner from the Figure 8, and leave the Figure 8 on the rope.
  7. Continue rappelling to the bottom.

One Rappel Device and One Ascender or Slide-and-Grip Knot

This method is a bit slower and can slide if you tie the knot wrong, but it works well. For this to work, you have to prepare a tether that can be lengthened while weighted. 

  1. Rappel until you're 6 inches or a foot above the knot.
  2. Attach an ascender (or slide-and-grip knot) to the rope above your rappel device and attach the tether to your harness.
  3. Slide the ascender up until the tether is taut. The tether needs to be just the right length. It needs to be long enough to reach above your rappel device but not so long that it's above your head after you drop a couple feet.
  4. Feed some rope through your rappel device until your entire weight is supported by the ascender tether.
  5. Detach your rappel device from above the knot.
  6. Attach your rappel device below the knot.
  7. Lower yourself by lengthening the tether until your rappel device takes your weight.
  8. Detach your ascender.
  9. Continue rappelling to the bottom.

Next

Rappel/Lower to Avoid Passing a Knot