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Friction Settings for Long Rappels

Description

When you rappel down long rappels, generally 100 feet or taller, you will want to adjust the amount of friction during your rappel. At the top of the rappel, you have a lot of rope pulling down on the brake side, which will slow you down. As you get closer to the ground, there is less rope below you, so you will rappel faster. Consequently, you will need to rig a low friction setting at the top of the cliff and add friction as you descend. Many of the preferred rappel devices have the ability to add friction quickly and easily on the fly by wrapping the brake strand around extra surfaces.

For a 500 foot rappel, do the following:

  1. Rig a low friction setting to start. This is counter-intuitive because most people get nervous from the height and want to rig extra friction. You actually want to start out with less friction that normal.
  2. Start rappelling. You'll know you have a good friction setting if you're going a bit slower than you want to at first.
  3. As you rappel, you'll start to speed up.
  4. When you reach a speed that is at your maximum comfort speed and before you have to pull hard with your brake hand to control your speed, add 1 friction setting. This will slow you down to the slow end of your comfort zone.
  5. As you continue to rappel, you'll start to speed up again.
  6. When you reach a speed that is at your maximum comfort speed and before you have to pull hard with your brake hand to control your speed, add 1 more friction setting. This will slow you down to the slow end of your comfort zone.
  7. Repeat this cycle until you reach the ground. 

Note that after you have rappelled 400 feet, you will be 100 feet above the ground. At this point, you will be using the same friction setting that you would normally use for a 100-foot rappel. 

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Guided Rappels