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Rigging a Retrievable Rope

Description

A retrievable rope is used when you need to be able to retrieve the rope from the bottom of the cliff. Examples of this include rock climbing and canyoneering. You rappel down to the bottom then pull your rope.

The following table shows the most common ways to rig a retrievable rappel rope, and it summarizes the capabilities and shortcomings of each method. For more details concerning how to rig each method and to get additional safety information, see each method's page.

To sort multiple columns, hold Shift and click each column.

Picture Method Can you Rappel Double Strand? Can you Rappel Single Strand? Does it Isolate Strands? Can you Easily Lower a Stuck Rappeller? Can you Set the Rope Length of at Least One Strand? Applicable for LAMAR? Works on Long Rappels with Pull Cord? Minimize Rope Grooves? Extra Gear Required?
Toss 'n Go Method Yes No No No No Yes No No None
Simul Rappel No Yes No Sometimes No Yes No No None
Knot Block Sometimes, When Safety is Clipped Yes Sometimes, When Safety is Clipped No Yes Yes Yes No Locking Carabiner
Biner Block Sometimes, When Safety is Clipped Yes Sometimes, When Safety is Clipped No Yes Yes Yes No Locking Carabiner
Releasable Figure 8 Block No Yes No Yes Yes Yes No No Figure 8, Quickdraw
Isolating Strands with a Stone Knot Yes Yes Yes No Yes No No No Locking Carabiner
Isolating Strands with a Stone Eight Yes Yes Yes No Yes No No No Figure 8, Locking Carabiner
Isolating Strands with a Figure 8 Yes Yes Yes No Yes No No No Figure 8, Locking Carabiner
Joker Method Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes No No No Totem, Locking Carabiner, Quickdraw
Jester Method Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes No No No Totem, 2 Locking Carabiners
Figure 8 Contingency Anchor Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes No No No Figure 8, 2 Locking Carabiners
Munter-Mule Contingency Anchor No Yes No Yes Yes No No No None
ATC Contingency Anchor Yes Yes No Yes Yes No No No ATC, Locking Carabiner
Toggle No Yes No No Yes Yes Yes Yes Toggle, Pull Cord
Toggle Splice No Yes No No Yes Yes Yes Yes Toggle, Pull Cord, Multiple Rappel Ropes
SAIS Corona Knot No Yes No Sometimes Yes Yes No Yes None
SAIS Rope Retrieval System No Yes No No Yes Yes No Yes Sewn sling
CEM Knot No Yes No No Yes Yes Yes Yes None

Advantages

You don't have to be at the top of the cliff when you undo your rope.

Disadvantages

Retrievable setups require a longer rope or a pull cord. Some setups also have the potential for disaster if the rappeller clips onto the wrong strand.

Next

Toss 'n Go Method